That’s what that smell is, said Neve, as we cycled up to Volpago del Montello at 07:30 this morning, having got up early to avoid the heat.
We went up the Via Sambugo and then Via Antiga. Past the quarry, dodging the water squirters watering the maize fields. Past run-down farms and ageing dogs, roadside shrines and basking dragonflies. Over the canal and on down towards the Montello. The heat was rising as we hit Volpago at 08:30 so we stopped for a quick breakfast at the first bar we found (which, unfortunately, produced cappucini alla Inglese along with some rather dubious pastries) and then headed home down the same route.